- This topic has 20 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 10 months, 3 weeks ago by
.
-
Posts
-
You’ve field striped a Ruger for cleaning including the bolt.
Any in house Ruger history gurus? Why would they design the take down that way? Seems excessively difficult.
Anyhow love the gun, wouldn’t trade it for anything.
![[IMG]](https://web.archive.org/web/20170630044938im_/http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/13/61231d342e0c64385922c1a82134ca63.jpg)
Bill made it easy to manufacture , not to tear down .I have seen many of them come in gunshops as a box of parts:help: I shot mine about 15000 rounds one year . I just took the grips off and washed it out with carb or brake cleaner . Then relube it with Lps 1 . The best 22 pistol ever made . They just don’t brake ! I bought a spare one but it never gets shot !
Jake
Not to mention how accurate and fun to shot…
I’ve thought about giving mine the spa treatment, internal parts upgrades target trigger, new barrel, reblueing lower…
But honestly it works perfect and nothing is overly wore out
I know of at least two people who sold MK II’s as a box of parts because they lost it trying to put them back together.
Once you get the feel for it it’s not too bad, but you’ll still have one time out of six that it kicks your butt.
CSM-101 said: ↑
I know of at least two people who sold MK II’s as a box of parts because they lost it trying to put them back together.Once you get the feel for it it’s not too bad, but you’ll still have one time out of six that it kicks your butt.
Oh man why can’t I meet someone like that. 🙁I think it’s only bad for me because my range time since my child was born is so few and far between I over oil everything. So trying to reassemble a MKII with oil hands can be a pain.
Did a Duracoat project on my 25 year old Mk II this summer. If you think field stripping is bad, detail strip one. I probably can field strip and reassemble mine in under a minute, tops. Detail strip took a good hour with 2 different videos from YouTube.
Never liked 22 pistols for this reason. Always seem to have a bunch of fiddly crap that most “real” guns seems to have designed away. Except for a taurus 1911 with firing pin safety. That was a pain to assemble from parts. Come to think of it I have had to reassemble about 2 dozen guns from a box of parts. I guess my friends know who can do it right!!! I did take a browning bdm apart, it was so crudded up from a lifetime of shooting. All of the internal parts looked like lumps of coal. After cleaning I was left with a myriad of pins and small dodads and somehow I figured out how to put it back together. It took a while…
Same thing with my Browning Buckmark. Just the most basic of take-down is a huge pain in the hooha. I don’t bother anymore.
Run a bore-snake through it and call it clean.
Ruger’s tool-less take down isn’t that hard (until you get to the magazine safety Mk III – easy to get rid of though). There is a simple set of steps that make it almost fool-proof (nothing is to a sufficiently talented fool). Muzzle down, insert main spring assembly (do not close latch), pull trigger (puts hammer in fired position against bolt), rotate muzzle vertical (lets hammer strut fall back against main spring assembly), close MS latch.
jdindadell said: ↑
Never liked 22 pistols for this reason. Always seem to have a bunch of fiddly crap that most “real” guns seems to have designed away…Easy peasy… 😉
as Jake commented, a can of brake cleaner and a toothbrush for the bolt face…brush through the chamber… blast of compressed air…a little lubricant, and a wipe down with Birchwood Casey Barricade (formerly the artist known as Sheath) for surface protection
The Ruger MkI and MkII were based on the Japanese Nambu pistol of WWII.
Hence the shape and take down procedure.
I remember having to put my MkII together, while holding it upside down, for some reasonThe Ruger “Standard Model” .22 (pre MK- designation) was my first handgun.
The gunsmith at the shop showed me how to take it down and reassemble, and I never found it that hard, I even detail strip the bolt every few times I clean it to be sure the firing pin doesn’t get stuck forward with fouling since there is no firing pin block in the early Rugers, and a seized up pin could cause a slamfire while loading.
They certainly are different, but once you get used to it they aren’t that bad.
I’ve worked on some pump shotguns that are far trickier.I just bought a 1961 Standard with a 6″ barrel for $200 OTD w/ two mags. The first time I shot it it was hiccuping every few rounds, took it home and ran the bore snake through it then took a brush to anywhere I could reach and now it runs anything. The huge grin on my face everytime I shoot it is awesome.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.