G-Shock batteries

[admin]

I have a question about replacement batteries for G-shock. I have a GA-100 G-Shock and was wondering if a CR2032 or a CR2025 battery from the newer models work? The original battery on the GA-100 is a CR1220 with a battery life of approx. 2 years while the CR2032 is 10 years and the CR2025 7 years. I read the manual for the GA-100 G-shock and it says to use the specific battery for that model.

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They are different size, they don’t fit.

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Thanks

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CR1220 batteries are very cheap on Amazon. Get a 10 pack under $5 – it should last you possibly longer than you will wear the watch.
Good choice on that GA-100! Great looking watch with those aviator style subdials.

[admin]

Is it ok to replace batteries on your own? It says in the manual to send it to your casio/g-shock dealer for battery replacement to make sure you keep the watch waterproof.

[admin]

Is it ok to replace batteries on your own? It says in the manual to send it to your casio/g-shock dealer for battery replacement to make sure you keep the watch waterproof.
I have changed batteries on my G-Shocks in a past without any issues. Just make sure that you will not short the battery while handling and installing it. Most common mistake I have seen – guys using metal tweezers to grab a battery. You can use any plastic tweezers to position a battery in it’s place. Even placing it by hand can work – just hold the battery by the edges.
Ideally, replacing a gasket would be beneficial, so if you can locate one – buy it and replace it while you have the watch open. For this model it is a simple O-ring gasket, which is placed into a circular groove in the case. I have replaced batteries without swapping the gasket and water resistance remained sufficient for the regular swimming and use. Decent dealer should have gaskets on hand, but in many places I have seen technicians just replace the battery only. Another thing that dealer may have – is a water pressure tester for watches. Not all have those! It is a pricey piece of equipment and not every repair shop has it. It does provide you with a piece of mind that watch is tested to the specified depth rating. This is your choice. As I said – mine work just fine in the depths of 3-5 meters (as deep as I can get in pools – hence I am not using watches for deep dives).
When you will remove the case back, do not take out the module – keep it inside the case. Your module will look like this (or very similar):
[​IMG]
Not my image.
The trick would be for you to release the snap (marked by the arrows). You can use a fine watch screwdriver or tweezers to pull the metal cover over the plastic notch. It helps to have some pressure applied to the top of this metal piece, to prevent it from springing up once it is free. Take your time and don’t rush through the procedure. Have some sort of container to put all the parts in as you remove them from the watch – it helps to prevent things from rolling away and worst – falling into some carpet. I usually put down a sheet of white paper under the area of repair, so if anything does get away from you – it is easily visible. One last thing – don’t over tighten the screws when you are done. Those screws set in plastic, so stripping them will not be too difficult. When tightening the screws, I use a cross pattern, once the screws are lightly tighten, I would apply final turns in this order: top-right, bottom-left, bottom-right, top-left. Doesn’t have to be just like that, but you get the idea.

Good luck!

[admin]

thanks for the tips

[admin]

Ok, so I dived back into watches this past summer. My first purchase was a Casio PAG240 Pathfinder I got an incredible deal at Sam’s Club.
Next came a Blue Mako on bracelet in September, awesome deal at DiscountWatchStore for $107. A few weeks ago a Seiko Orange Monster srp309 on bracelet from Amazon for $189.

I know, I know, I’m kinda out of control but all of them were at the lowest prices I have seen, and I’m a sucker for a good deal and a great value.

So now I hear the Seiko skx007k1 on rubber strap is only $119 at WOW. Never seen it that low, but does it really bring anything to the party?

I know it is all about personal preferences, but many of you guys have been here for years and have bought and sold more watches than I could ever hope to. So any input would be appreciated by this newbie!!

TIA,

Joe

[admin]

I have an SKX and love it. Great lume, versatile and clean look, very readable, keeps great time.

Less dressy (and bigger) than the Mako. Smaller (and less loud) than the Monster. Will be a good in-between watch.

I paid equivalent of about $160 for my SKX and think it was good value at that price. For $120 it’s a steal.

You have good taste!

[admin]

SKX007 is an absolute classic.

I think it does look much better on a nice steel bracelet, and you could spend some of those savings on a mesh or “beads-of-rice” strap 🙂

[admin]

I have had a few SKX and you can’t go wrong with them. They built like a rock and have a work horse movement.

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I don’t think you can go wrong with a SKX diver. They’re kinda like Spyderco Delicas or BM Grips , in they are good at what they do and don’t cost a pile. I also love the fact they have a pretty awesome heritage, have in-house movement and will never be mistaken for Rolexes. That’s no shot at Rolexes, I’m just not into things that aren’t the “real thing”.

[admin]

I have both an SKX009 and an SKX173 and love both of them. Great watches.

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It’s a classic utilitarian dive watch and has a place in anyone’s collection. Hopefully they’ll upgrade it with a 4R36 movement soon like they did with the monster.

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I’ve had my 173 for 3 years, it’s my first auto, it does its thing and does it well. Not flashy, doesn’t look like the control panel of a shuttle, can be worn with a suit. Keeps darn good time and low maintenance.

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